IntroducingH. Moser Endeavor Perpetual Calendar 'Smoked Salmon'

Over the past two years, H. Moser has launched a pair of Streamliner releases with brown griffé gradient dials with vertical graining. The first was a simple time-only Streamliner; the next, a perpetual calendar. Those previous releases were in stainless steel cases, but this new Endeavor Perpetual Calendar comes in white gold, with 5N red gold finish applique indices.

The watch is powered by the HMC 800 manufacture calibre movement, a manually-wound caliber with a whopping 7 days minimum power reserve. It features the brand's interchangeable Moser escapement and original double hairspring, with the four-year cycle of the perpetual calendar shown on the movement side. The dial side features the brand's ingeniously simple display for the remaining calendar functions. In addition to the large date, there's a small central hand that points to the hour on the dial, corresponding to the appropriate month (numbered 1 to 12), along with a power reserve indicator and a small seconds subdial.

The watch measures 42mm in diameter and is 13.1mm thick. It comes delivered on a dark brown alligator leather strap, featuring an 18-carat white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo. The watch is not a limited edition and is priced at $68,000

There's frankly never that much to say about a dial color change, but I can appreciate the expansion of the lineup in an effort to give more options to people who might have been waiting for something like this to come along. The vertically brushed dial is certainly attractive, though the harsh black of the date window has never been my favorite contrast. The use of rose gold-toned indices is something that I never would have considered when seeing the previous dials in this color. 

Seeing them now, I'm not sure that they would be my first choice if given the option—I tend to like indices that match the case material (unless you're going for something like blackened indices, which are at least not colored at all). That said, I can understand the choice as it matches the dial warmth in a pleasant way.

Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
Model: Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon
Reference Number: 1800-0207

Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 13.1mm
Case Material: 18-carat white gold
Dial Color: Smoked Salmon griffé dial
Indexes: Applique indices, 5N red gold finish
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Dark brown alligator leather strap; 18-carat white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

Caliber: HMC 800
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, month, large date, Power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock, Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Diameter: 34mm
Thickness: 6.3mm
Power Reserve: Minimum of 7 days
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
Jewels: 32
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Interchangeable Moser escapement, original double hairspring

Price: $68,000
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No

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