Hands-OnMB&F LM101 EVO Celebrates 20 Years Of Outside-the-Box Thinking

No one should be surprised; the team rarely, if ever, misses. So, given the watch's exceptional quality, the MB&F LM101 EVO raises an interesting question: how wearable do you want your MB&F to be? Max Büsser started the brand in 2005 on the back of creative and sometimes outlandish sculptural design (developed with friends in the industry). It wasn't until 2011 that the brand released its first slightly traditional watch, with the start of the Legacy Machine series. 

While still avant-garde, the Legacy Machine 1, developed by Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, at least had a regular time-telling display on a subdial. It was more practical and approachable, setting the stage for a buyer like me who doesn't want to wear an architectural object or a car-inspired timepiece daily.

The LM101 is both a spiritual successor to the first Legacy Machine and its 2014 launch represented a milestone for the brand, marking its first in-house movement (with assistance on aesthetics and finishing from Kari Voutilainen). We're obviously fans of the watch at Hodinkee (having done our own limited edition of the watch). Still, there are some practical downsides to the original LM101, among them a limited water resistance of 30 meters.

I was excited about the prospect of the brand's entry-level watch getting an update to the specifications that impact wearability. One day, I hope to own an MB&F, but, as with many things in life, I experience a bit of analysis paralysis when browsing the brand's catalog. I also often look for the most "emblematic" watch from the brand (assuming I can only own one). The Legacy Machine series was, until recently, the most practical offering from the brand. Then came the Special Projects 1, which has far more wearable dimensions. But I got into watchmaking in the era when the Legacy Machine was the hot watch from MB&F, and it still seems like the quintessential option—maybe even more so now with the LM101 EVO.

The LM101 EVO is now available with a green or salmon dial plate, featuring two black subdials for time-telling (at 2 o'clock) and the 60-hour power reserve (at 6 o'clock). The black subdials are circularly brushed, marking a notable difference from the non-EVO LM101, which features white enamel subdials and blued hands (without lume). This is part of the "EVO treatment" that the brand has applied to watches like the LM Split Escapement or LM Sequential EVO (which actually started as an EVO model and later transitioned to the traditional style).

I have mixed feelings about the design touch. While the new black subdials are more durable and legible than the white enamel, they have a very strong and somewhat dominating look. At the same time, on a watch with an already extreme design language, it's by far from distracting.

The watch still features a 14mm balance wheel floating above the dial with a Straumann double hairspring. The balance ticks at 18,000 vph, and when you tilt the dial to look at the balance, you'll see that the dial shifts in the light. The green dial in particular shifts from a dark green to almost blue or teal, depending on the angle. I know more than a few collectors have been waiting for an LM101 in green (my colleague TanTan included), and this doesn't disappoint.

The other significant dial-side change pertains to the flying arms that suspend the balance, as well as the shape of the escapement and pallet fork. The previous LM101 features a more sculptural arch design, particularly at the lower section, with sharp angles that resemble architectural bases for the smooth pillars, which hold the balance. The new LM101 EVO features a more refined design, which appears more fluid. Meanwhile, the original LM101 escapement is black polished and very traditional. The EVO also features a skeletonized escapement "battle axe" style arms supported by a more angular and reworked attachment for the pallet fork.

The movement is nearly the same as the LM101, with 40 hours of power reserve and 23 jewels. As I mentioned, this was a watershed moment for the brand. One of the main appeals of an LM101 or LM101 EVO, from my perspective at least, is that you get a touch of both Max Büsser's design and 20 years of brand heritage and Kari Voutilainen's influence. 

You essentially get two icons of modern independent watchmaking in one watch, which is a lot of value. The anthracite finish is yet another EVO treatment, but the Geneva stripes, anglage, and very traditional and sloping bridges are still the same and somehow feel more in line with the modern design of MB&F.

The most noticeable change with any EVO is the case, which I think presents the biggest practical question for any buyer. At first, I thought it was a question of what design treatment is most representative of MB&F's aesthetic. After some reflection, I think the consideration is better framed as "which design treatment is best for this particular model?" The LM Sequential EVO made sense to launch with a sportier framework; a chronograph with all the bells and whistles makes sense. But does the brand's most simple, time-only watch?

The 40mm by 16.5mm case is made more wearable due to the use of titanium. At the same time, the brand's patented FlexRing shock absorber sits between the movement and the case to help protect the movement from any harder wear that might come from people pushing the watch's limits, including the upgraded 80m water resistance. The 49mm lug-to-lug measurement might seem slightly long, but with a quicker drop-off to the lugs and a tight integration of the strap (17mm lug width), it ensures that the watch fits nicely on a variety of wrist sizes.

The rubber strap, combined with the brand's amazing spring-loaded butterfly deployant clasp, is one of the best wearing experiences on the market. The clasp is made by Chanel, which has made similar designs for Richard Mille as well, but the way the whole watch hugs the wrist helps minimize the thickness of the watch.

So, what version of the LM101 is the best right now? The new LM101 EVO in titanium sits slightly above the standard model in stainless steel at CHF 62,000 (versus the CHF 58,000) before tax and tariffs. Yes, the sticker shock is real, especially compared to when we first released the MB&F LM101 "Hodinkee" (which was $52,000). But the same can be said for nearly every luxury watch on the market today. 

What you get, however, is a watch that offers a bit more peace of mind for wearability in various situations and one that, in the metal, doesn't feel overpriced in the slightest. Earlier, I said the success of the LM EVO is a debate about what works best for the model, but maybe it's better framed around whether you want an MB&F that can function as a daily-wear watch. For those who do (and are looking for their first entrée into the brand), the LM101 EVO might just be the best watch for the job.

For more on the MB&F LM101 EVO, visit the brand's website.